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Cura della pelle © EmergingBuzz
Cura quotidiana della pelle © Byrdie
Cura della pelle © Real Simple
Dopo l’estate anche la pelle può risentire dello stress da rientro a causa di sintomi come insonnia, nervosismo, stanchezza tipici di tale sindrome, anche se talvolta la pelle porta con sé anche i segni di frequenti bagni al mare o in piscina, della salsedine, di lunghe e spesso cattive esposizioni al sole, nonché di una scarsa igiene. Il risultato? Una pelle dal colorito spento e disomogeneo, disidratata, desquamata o ispessita. È quanto sintetizza AIDECO, l’associazione italiana di dermatologia e cosmetologia, che raccomanda di preparare la pelle alla nuova stagione seguendo in particolare tre step - detersione, esfoliazione e idratazione – spiegandone modalità e importanza.
Pulire la pelle
La detersione è un gesto che dovrebbe essere compiuto quotidianamente sia la mattina che la sera perché, spiega AIDECO, aiuta a rimuovere dall’epidermide lo “sporco esogeno”, quello, cioè, proveniente dall’esterno, nonché materiale organico in eccesso come sebo e cellule in ricambio, il tutto rispettando il film idrolipidico cutaneo, una pellicola sottile che riveste, proteggendola, la pelle.
I prodotti per la detersione della pelle, spiega AIDECO, vanno scelti, oltre che in chiave di sicurezza, a seconda del tipo di pelle, condizioni della cute e in base alle proprie esigenze come ricerca di una forte azione pulente, garanzia di delicatezza e rispetto dei parametri fisiologici. La qualità di questi prodotti è importante non solo per la detersione del viso ma anche del corpo, in particolare ascelle e zone intime, dove “una detersione scorretta” può “alterare i parametri fisiologici della pelle” scatenando la comparsa di “secchezza, irritazioni o altre manifestazioni indesiderate”. La detersione, a sua volta, può contare su prodotti contenenti tensioattivi, molecole, spiega AIDECO, che si legano allo sporco sul film idrolipido cutaneo, favorendone la rimozione, quindi su prodotti lipofili come olio o latte detergente dalle proprietà eudermiche, che aiutano, cioè, a riportare la pelle al suo normale stato fisiologico.
Esfolianti
Importante anche la scelta degli esfolianti, che, spiega AIDECO, hanno il compito di rimuovere dallo strato corneo, dalla parte, cioè, più esterna della pelle, “le cellule epidermiche desquamanti ed i residui di impurità sfuggiti alla detersione” favorendo, pertanto, il ricambio cellulare epidermico.
Gli esfolianti sono essenzialmente di due tipi: fisici e chimici. Alla prima categoria appartengono gli scrub, composti di sostanze leggermente abrasive per lo sfregamento superficiale dell’epidermide, quindi i dischetti esfolianti. La raccomandazione è, comunque, di non usare prodotti con granuli troppo grandi e/o troppo abrasivi per evitare irritazioni o escoriazioni cutanee. Alla seconda categoria appartengono, invece, gli esfolianti chimici o light peeling che agiscono utilizzando, ad esempio, l’acido glicolico, mandelico, tartarico o salicilico. Questi prodotti, ricorda AIDECO, fanno parte dei trattamenti tipici della medicina estetica, che devono essere eseguiti solo da “personale specializzato ed esperto”.
Idratazione
Terzo step l’idratazione, con una precisazione. Parlando di pelle secca AIDECO spiega, infatti, come questa possa presentarsi tale perché disidrata, carente, cioè, di acqua e/o di sostanze idrofile, perché carente o con scarsissima quantità di lipidi o perché carente di entrambe le cose. Nel primo caso, spiega AIDECO, andranno utilizzati prodotti fortemente idratanti, restitutivi nel secondo, con entrambe le funzioni nel terzo caso. Per l’idratazione del viso e del corpo, in particolare dopo l’estate, AIDECO consiglia di applicare tutti i giorni prodotti idratanti o in crema corposa ricchi di sostanze che aiutino a conservare l’omeostasi cutanea, fra cui sostanze umettanti come il glicerolo o igroscopiche, capaci, cioè, di trattenere l’acqua all’interno della pelle, come l’acido ialuronico.
Importante anche la ricostituzione del film idrolipidico di protezione, a tutto vantaggio dell’aspetto estetico e funzionale della pelle. Aiuteranno, in tal senso, emulsioni in crema o lozione, con lo strato corneo che riuscirà ad “aumentare il suo contenuto d’acqua” e a “ripristinare la componente lipidica”, che “formando il film protettivo” contribuirà a ridurre la perdita d’acqua transepidermica. Se per la scelta dei giusti prodotti per la cura della pelle, in particolare dopo l’estate, è importante, raccomanda AIDECO, conoscere il proprio biotipo cutaneo, non va dimenticata la possibilità di contrastare la formazione dei radicali liberi, prevenendo in questo modo l’invecchiamento cutaneo, con applicazioni topiche di sostanze antiossidanti come tocoferolo e acido ascorbico, più semplicemente vitamina E e vitamina C.
Abbiamo parlato di:
AIDECO – Associazione Italiana Dermatologia e Cosmetologia Website | Facebook | YouTube
