Un viso più giovane grazie a peeling, maschere e onde d’urto

Un nuovo trattamento restituisce luminosità alla pelle togliendo i segni del tempo e idratandola dopo una lunga esposizione al sole

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Un viso più giovane grazie a peeling maschere e onde durto

Pelle luminosa © Pinterest

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Dottoressa Patrizia Gilardino su gentile concessione

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Pelle luminosa © 1zoom.net

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Pelle luminosa © 1zoom.net

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Ringiovanimento pelle © YouTube

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Trattamento viso con acido mandelico © Gramha

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Esempio di trattamento con onde d’urto © Medical Salus

di Stefania Elena Carnemolla

COMMENTA

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Ringiovanire il volto, restituendo luminosità alla pelle: c’è ora un nuovo protocollo per un trattamento non invasivo in una sola seduta con peeling, applicazione di un siero, onde d’urto e due maschere. A illustrarlo la dottoressa Patrizia Gilardino, laureatasi in Medicina e Chirurgia all’ Università degli Studi di Milano e perfezionatasi alla Scuola di Specializzazione in Chirurgia Plastica, Ricostruttiva ed Estetica dello stesso ateneo e che, oltre a svolgere la libera professione, è socio di diverse società scientifiche fra cui la Società Italiana di Chirurgia Plastica Ricostruttiva ed Estetica e la Società Americana di Chirurgia Plastica.

“È un trattamento” spiega “che svolge un’azione di base: innanzitutto rinfresca il volto. Grazie ad un’azione complessiva di rivitalizzazione cellulare e di stimolazione della produzione del collagene, porta ad un rinnovamento superficiale della pelle, la ricompatta e, agendo sul tono muscolare, ha un effetto di risollevamento. Tenendo conto della stagione estiva, è possibile evitare il peeling iniziale, che richiede qualche particolare attenzione per l’esposizione al sole, anche se l’effetto si attenua un po’”.

Il trattamento è anche indicato per reidratare il viso dopo lunghe esposizioni al sole questo perché “iI raggi solari tendono a seccare la pelle, indurirla e inspessirla”.

Peeling

Primo step è il peeling, “un’esfoliazione leggera” per togliere le cellule morte e liberare i pori della pelle” spiega la dottoressa Gilardino. La base del peeling è costituita dall’acido mandelico, originariamente usato come antibatterico per trattare le infezioni alle vie urinarie se non come antibiotico e entrato una quarantina di anni fa in cosmesi per la creazione di prodotti depigmentanti ed esfolianti. Previsto dal nuovo protocollo per il ringiovanimento del viso, oltre a garantire un peeling più soft rispetto ad altri acidi come, ad esempio, quelli della frutta, l’acido mandelico agisce sulla pigmentazione della pelle, schiarendo l’incarnato, agendo sulle macchie più leggere e preparando la pelle per i trattamenti successivi.

Maschera lenitiva

Prima del trattamento con le onde d’urto il consiglio è quello di applicare, in particolare nel caso di pelli molto sensibili, una maschera lenitiva, preceduta dall’utilizzo di un siero dalle proprietà idratanti ed emollienti a base di camomilla, olio di castoro o di ricino e hamamelis, l’amamelide pianta nativa dell’America settentrionale e i cui estratti vengono usati in cosmesi per proteggere, ad esempio, la cute dall’azione dei raggi ultravioletti, da episodi infiammatori o, ancora, per sostenere le capacità antiossidanti cutanee.

La maschera è base di ossido, zinco, biossido di titanio, hamamelis e glicerina, sostanze dal potere idratante, antiinfiammatorio, protettivo, ciò che ne fa sostanze lenitive.

Trattamento con onde d'urto

Si passa quindi alle onde d’urto, soluzione non invasiva, ormai largamente usata in medicina estetica. Novità di questa fase del protocollo è il gel conduttore, “non più inerte” spiega la dottoressa Gilardino “ma addizionato di principi ristrutturanti che possono a penetrare meglio grazie alle onde d’urto. Il risultato è quindi amplificato: da una parte abbiamo le onde d’urto che, agendo direttamente sul metabolismo cellulare, hanno un effetto rigenerativo importante e permettono di restituire tonicità alla pelle; dall’altra questi principi rigeneranti contenuti nel gel che le stesse onde permettono di far penetrare”.

Il gel è a base di collagene idrolizzato, elastina e acido ialuronico e ha proprietà antiinfiammatorie grazie alla centella asiatica, un derivato del luppolo e grano tenero, tutte sostanze che stimolano i fibroblasti, le cellule, cioè, tipiche del tessuto connettivo e che producono, fra le altre cose, il collagene.

Maschera protettiva

Dopo il trattamento con le onde d’urto, preceduta dall’uso del siero a base di camomilla, olio di castoro e hamamelis, viene applicata la maschera protettiva a base di ossido, zinco e biossido di titanio, che garantiscono una maggiore protezione della barriera cutanea dagli agenti esterni.

Cura quotidiana

L’azione combinata del peeling, delle due maschere e delle onde d’urto “non risolve situazioni particolari ma è un’ottima base per avere sempre un viso luminoso” spiega la dottoressa Gilardino, ricordando come - al di là dei trattamenti per i quali è “sempre bene affidarsi ad un medico esperto” - la pelle può essere conservata con “piccoli accorgimenti quotidiani” come “pulizia, nutrimento e idratazione” e proteggendola prima di ogni esposizione al sole.

Casi particolari

Ci sono poi i casi particolari, che necessitano di interventi più mirati: “Ad esempio, per le rughe che si formano sulla fronte o nella zona della glabella” conclude la dottoressa Gilardino “è indicato il botulino; per uniformare la zona del collo sono più indicati i led; mentre, per un rilassamento del viso più pronunciato, è necessario agire più in profondità, magari con un trattamento con ultrasuoni focalizzati”.