Uno chef con la valigia, si potrebbe dire. Già, perché Alessandro Borghese, classe ’76, nato a San Francisco, fermo non ci sta proprio stare. Né fisicamente, né mentalmente. E per la gioia dei tanti “fan”, le sue peregrinazioni culinarie portano dritto dritto a una nuova serie del programma di successo 4 Ristoranti, appena ripartito su Sky e in streaming su NOW: un nuovo e inedito viaggio che fa tappa al di fuori dei nostri confini toccando la Costa Azzurra e Lisbona, per poi tornare in Italia, tra Oltrepò Pavese, Ravenna, Sardegna, Gorizia, Lucca, Monza, Mantova.
Una stagione entusiasmante
“Ho fatto ben nove puntate in pochi mesi, e mi sono divertito molto -ci racconta nel suo ristorante milanese AB-Il lusso della semplicità, dove ha da poco inaugurato l’esposizione “Identità Scomposte” dell’artista Felice Battiloro -. Una stagione entusiasmante, in posti bellissimi e in cui i ristoratori hanno dato davvero tanto. E poi per me è un arricchimento, dal punto di vista culturale e umano, per l’accoglienza che questi luoghi mi offrono, per l’amore che mi viene dimostrato, per tutto ciò che riguarda ricette, fornitori, materie prime. Ci godiamo i centri storici, parliamo, abbiamo momenti di confronto in biblioteche, palazzi nobiliari; c’è un’arte infinita da scoprire, di cui penso di aver accarezzato solo la superficie in nove anni di programma. E devo dire che, comunque, ho lo stesso entusiasmo del primo giorno, continuo a sentire il calore della gente per strada”.
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Amante del bello
Il binomio arte e cibo riveste infatti un ruolo importante nella vita di Borghese: “Sono un amante del bello -afferma lo chef-. Può essere un piatto, un’opera d’arte, la natura. Circondarsi del bello fa star bene”. Una filosofia che accomuna entrambi i suoi ristoranti, quello di Milano e quello di Venezia: “Ci sono differenze di location, naturalmente, ma il filo conduttore artistico è simile, così come la cucina, che ha i miei tratti distintivi: a Venezia c’è un enorme giardino che affaccia sul Canal Grande, lì per i piatti si attinge anche alla tradizione e alla materia prima lagunare e ho un giovane chef veneziano che si diverte a sperimentare. Sono due locali che si parlano, che hanno la stessa mano architettonica e in cui si sente che c’è Ale, in entrambi. E, in più, si parlano anche per San Silvestro, che quest’anno ho voluto dedicare all’amore, con Ale in Loveland! Un percorso gastronomico per riscoprire i sapori della tradizione e i ricordi più genuini, un inno alla cucina italiana: passione e amore, famiglia e affetti, territorialità e appartenenza, ma anche pace e libertà. Stesso filo conduttore, stesso menu, interamente accompagnato da bollicine, ma con performance artistiche diverse”.
Le due città del cuore
La scelta di Milano e Venezia, così profondamente diversa, è connessa al legame che Alessandro Borghese ha con tutte e due : “Porto entrambe nel cuore. Venezia è la città romantica per antonomasia, la città delle fughe d'amore mie e di Wilma, mia moglie, la città dove ti svegli la mattina e percepisci questo magico silenzio. Io amo svegliarmi presto, spesso vado al mercato di Rialto, che è vicino al ristorante, vado a vedere il pesce, mi godo la dimensione a misura d'uomo, la lentezza, il salutarsi con le persone che incontri. Milano è più frenetica, non perdona da una parte ma ti dà tanto dall'altro; è meritocratica ma le devi dare l'anima. Ha un sacco di contrasti. Comunque mi è entrata dentro, e poi ci sono nate le mie figlie”.
Il colpo di fulmine
E a proposito di famiglia, se si dice Alessandro, non si può non pensare a Wilma, per l'appunto. Vale a dire Wilma Oliverio, sposata nel 2009: un colpo di fulmine li ha fatti convolare a nozze dopo solo nove mesi dal primo incontro , avvenuto quando lei era manager nel settore commerciale della Digital Bros. Stava lavorando al videogioco Cooking Mama, e galeotta fu la ricerca di uno chef brillante, giovane e intraprendente… Annoverata da Forbes Italia tra le 100 donne di successo 2023, Wilma è oggi amministratrice delegata e direttrice commerciale dell'AB Normal, la società che gestisce tutte le attività del marito, dai ristoranti ai catering , dalle produzioni tv ai contenuti digitali. Insomma, una sorta di casa e bottega. “Lavorare in coppia? E' un vortice di emozioni, di gioie -confessa Borghese-. Non è facile, ma è anche bellissimo”.
Il Natale in famiglia
Sempre rimanendo in ambito familiare, e in particolare di ricordi legati all'infanzia e al Natale, Alessandro torna per noi con la memoria al periodo delle feste trascorse in casa a Roma, con la mamma, l'attrice Barbara Bouchet , e il papà, l'imprenditore di origine napoletana Luigi Borghese , colui che gli ha trasmesso l'amore per la cucina: “ Con papà preparavamo i classici, come il capitone e alcune specialità partenopee, per esempio il babbà, che lui adorava ; i Natali erano legati al pesce al forno, all'acqua pazza, che facevo insieme a lui, mentre mia madre si occupava dell'atmosfera, delle decorazioni e della musica. Ancora adesso, se ci ripenso, mi pare di sentire il rumore della puntina sui suoi vinili da collezione a tema natalizio”.
