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"Un giorno qualcuno mi ha detto 'non sei carina e non lo sarai mai, ma non importa, hai qualcosa di molto più importante: hai stile'",Se ne va la più storica delle icone della moda e dello stile. E il termine "storico" stavolta è pienamente centrato perché Iris Apfel si è spenta a 102 anni. E a testimoniare la modernità della Apfel, icona fuori dal tempo, è anche il modo in cui è stata data la notizia del lutto: la "stellina geriatrica" del Queens, come amava definirsi, appare sul suo account Instagram vestita con un lungo abito fantasia oro e grandi occhiali neri.
Necrologio social
Il suo ultimo post è solo di due giorni fa, il 29 febbraio, quando aveva celebrato i suoi "102 anni e mezzo" dopo aver firmato una collezione per H&M, dopo molteplici collaborazioni tra cui Citroën, Magnum, Happy Calze e Mac. Con 2,9 milioni di follower su Instagram, la fashionista ultracentenaria partecipava ancora ai principali eventi della moda e sfilava ancora sulla sua sedia a rotelle. Poi si è spenta nella sua casa di Palm Beach in Florida.
La nonna di tutte le socialite
Iris Apfel era più di una top model e molto meglio di qualsiasi celebrità, fino a tarda età ha fatto impazzire il mondo della moda con uno stile eccentrico, sfacciato e bohémien che mescolava vintage hippie e haute couture, trovava tesori nei mercatini delle pulci e si divertiva con le contraddizioni. Nel ricordo della sua portavoce Lori Sale: "Era una visionaria in tutti i sensi. Vedeva il mondo attraverso una lente unica, ornata da occhiali giganti e caratteristici che le stavano sul naso. Attraverso quelle lenti, vedeva il mondo come un caleidoscopio di colori, una tela di motivi e stampe. Il suo occhio artistico trasformava il banale in straordinario e la sua capacità di fondere il non convenzionale con l'elegante era a dir poco magica".
Uno stile imprevedibile
Negli anni '80 e '90 Iris Apfel ha fatto tendenza con un abbigliamento clamoroso e irriverente: una giacca squadrata e multicolore di Bill Blass con gonna colorata da danza Hopi e stivali di pelle di capra pelosa; un soffice cappotto da sera di piume di gallo rosse e verdi con pantaloni di camoscio tagliati fino alle ginocchia; un set di maglioni di angora rosa e una gonna a pannelli di broccato cinese del XIX secolo. I suoi accessori potevano essere una maschera gioiello o una collana di perline di giada che le arrivava alle ginocchia, una borsetta di latta a forma di terrier, sciarpe pelose avvolte intorno al collo come un mucchio di pitoni e, quasi sempre, il suo caratteristico carico di braccialetti e occhiali da gufo, grandi come piattini.
Alta, magra, geniale
Di lei ha scritto il New York Times: "Era alta e magra, con una corta chioma di capelli argentati e squarci scarlatti sulle labbra e sulle unghie, una vecchietta tra le modelle della Settimana della Moda e un'autentica mercante di Noo Yawk in un negozio di Harlem o in un souk in Tunisia". Per decenni, a partire dagli anni Cinquanta, Iris Apfel ha progettato interni per clienti come Greta Garbo ed Estée Lauder. Con il marito, Carl Apfel, ha fondato la Old World Weavers, che vendeva e restaurava tessuti, tra cui molti alla Casa Bianca. Gli Apfel hanno setacciato musei e bazar di tutto il mondo alla ricerca di disegni tessili e infine hanno venduto la loro azienda nel 1992; Iris tuttavia ha continuato a fare da consulente per l'azienda. Nel 2005 il Metropolitan Museum of Art di New York ha allestito la mostra Rara Avis: Selections From the Iris Apfel Collection con 82 suoi abiti e 300 accessori. Sotto una valanga di pubblicità, gli studenti di arte, design e storia sociale si sono affollati nelle gallerie del museo insieme ai pullman di turisti e decine di migliaia di visitatori curiosi. Anche Carla Fendi, Giorgio Armani e Karl Lagerfeld hanno assistito alla mostra. "Iris", un documentario di Albert Maysles, è stato presentato al New York Film Festival nel 2014.
Niente male per la figlia di un commerciante di specchi e di una proprietaria di boutique di origine russa. Forgiata dagli studi in Storia dell'arte alla New York University e all'Università del Wisconsin.
