Sawadee kha in Thailandia! Ossia, benvenuti nel paese degli uomini liberi, dove una delle parole che meglio esprime la filosofia di vita degli abitanti è sanuk, ossia gioia di vivere.
E allora partiamo per il nostro viaggio, iniziando da Bangkok , per un tuffo nella realtà sfaccettata di una delle più vivaci metropoli asiatiche. Modernità e tradizione. Dinamismo e spiritualità. Grattacieli futuristici e templi silenziosi. Questa è un’affascinante città di contrasti. Lo si percepisce subito, ed è anche il suo bello. Arrivare a Bangkok quando è già calato il sole, e assaporarla lentamente, per la prima volta, mentre si è a bordo di un’imbarcazione che scivola dolcemente lungo il fiume Chao Phraya è un’esperienza piacevolissima . Cenare a bordo scorgendo il profilo dei templi buddisti e quello degli edifici contemporanei fa già pregustare quel che attende l’indomani, con la luce. I tetti e le guglie del Palazzo Reale e dei suoi variopinti, scintillanti storici templi, come quello del Budda di Smeraldo, e poi il Wat Po, il più grande e antico del paese, che conserva un imponente e bellissimo Buddha sdraiato, lungo 46 m. e alto 16 . Sulla sponda opposta del fiume, ecco il Wat Arun, il Tempio dell'Aurora , con la svettante torre in stile khmer, di 82 m. È un monumento simbolo, il più antico della città e il più alto dell’intera Thailandia, da cui ammirare belle vedute della città. Concedetevi anche qualche ora e a Chinatown ammirate il Buddha d’oro massiccio del Wat Traimit ; poi fatevi un giro in barca lungo i caratteristici canali, un tempo principale via di comunicazione, per scoprire la Bangkok più tradizionale, spingendovi sino agli antichi mercati galleggianti. Per lo shopping, tenete presente Chatuchak, il weekend market all’aperto con 15mila bancarelle che vendono di tutto , dall’antiquariato ai vestiti, e dove gli stessi thailandesi fanno acquisti. E questo, naturalmente, è solo un piccolo “assaggio” di ciò che Bangkok offre...
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Krabi Avete presente le immagini stile cartolina, quelle da sogni ad occhi aperti? Allora preparatevi a vederle, ma dal vivo: le meraviglie naturali marine vi attendono. Il Mare delle Andamane è uno scrigno di gioielli: isolette da fiaba, scogli che emergono dall’acqua e colorano tutt’attorno di verde e indaco, lembi di spiagge dalla sabbia candida... Krabi è ricca di luoghi idilliaci, ha un litorale dorato che si sposa con le scenografiche formazioni rocciose ; non a caso è stata nominata “Città più accogliente della Thailandia” nei Traveller Review Awards 2022 di Booking.com. Tutta da esplorare l’area di Phulay Bay, speciale per la posizione, con le montagne Naka alle spalle e il mare a lambirne il profilo. Si arriva poi facilmente all’isoletta di Hong: si raggiunge in barca attraverso la baia di Nang, passando da una piscina naturale proprio nel centro dell’isola. E per chi desidera regalarsi una vacanza indimenticabile, il Ritz Carlton Reserve è il posto perfetto, all’insegna del relax assoluto e di un servizio di alto livello.
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Procedendo verso sud, ecco la zona di Trang, la cui costa offre vari punti panoramici, come l’area di Sikao, da cui è possibile partecipare a gite in giornata per scoprire luoghi incontaminati: da non perdere la Grotta di Smeraldo di Ko Mook , alla quale si arriva attraverso una galleria di roccia di 80 metri, sino a giungere a una spiaggetta bianca circondata da alte rocce calcareee; Ko Mook, che regala anche lembi di litorale dalla sabbia chiara e finissima e dalle acque trasparenti , fa parte dell’Arcipelago di Trang, protetto da un Parco naturale che comprende anche la splendida Ko Kradan, dove non è affatto difficile ritrovarsi a nuotare tra pesci variopinti.
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Phuket La perla delle Andamane: così viene chiamata Phuket, a un’ora di aereo a sud della capitale . Un gioiello del mare, con distese di sabbia candida, lambite da acque turchesi che si fondono con il verde delle colline. Lunga 54 Km e larga 22, conta ben 17 spiagge bianche, e il paesaggio alterna anche promontori rocciosi a scogliere e colline ricoperte da foreste tropicali . Mai Khao è la spiaggia più lunga dell’isola, dove enormi tartarughe liuto ogni anno depositano le uova, mentre Nai Yang, circondata da pini, è l’ideale per rilassarsi. Per un soggiorno rigenerante c’è il Como Point Yamu, vicino alla Old Town di Phuket, con vista sulla Phang Nga Bay, famosa per le attività sportive, dal kayak alla pesca; gli interni dell’hotel sono stati curati dall’interior designer milanese Paola Navone, e per coccolarsi si va sul sicuro affidandosi alle mani esperte del personale della Spa Comoshambala.
Chiang Mai Ed ecco che atmosfera, clima, paesaggi cambiano nuovamente. Siamo a Chiang Mai, che risale al 1296 ed è costellata di templi : a partire dal Wat Phra Singh, del 1345, sino al Wat Phan Tao, in tek, e al Wat Prasat.
E poi, da non perdere, il Wat Phratat Doi Suthep, in collina, tra i luoghi più sacri della Thailandia settentrionale; andateci, se potete, di domenica, quando è visitato dai tanti fedeli thai. Vedrete famiglie che arrivano dalla città, dalle campagne, per trascorrere una giornata tutti insieme, raccogliendosi in preghiera, mettendosi in posa per farsi scattare qualche foto ricordo dai fotografi presenti, come si usava una volta, quando non tutti potevano permettersi una macchina fotografica. Chiang Mai è l’ideale anche come base per spostarsi nei dintorni, per esempio al Parco Nazionale Doi Inthanon, perfetto per immergersi in un clima fresco, con le vette più alte del paese, sino a 2565 m., e con i due stupa gemelli, immersi in un giardino rigoglioso.
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Chang Rai
Proseguendo il viaggio verso nord, si arriva nella piccola e rilassata Chang Rai, fondata nel 1262, dove si può visitare il Wat Phra Kaew, il tempio più venerato dagli abitanti ; da qui si parte per escursioni in collina o in montagna. In queste aree del nord si producono riso, tabacco, canna da zucchero, thè. Ed è veramente uno spettacolo arrivare di mattina sulle colline che circondano Chang Rai e trovarsi di fronte a un verde mare ondulato di piantine di thè , con le donne intente a raccoglierlo a mano (basta una mezza giornata per fare questa gita, per esempio alle piantagioni Choui Fong, facilmente prenotabile in una delle agenzie in città).
La cucina
La cucina e la “thainess”. “Hai già mangiato”? Chiedono i thailandesi quando incontrano qualcuno. In effetti i Thailandesi raramente mangiano da soli, spesso lo fanno fuori casa, e fra un pasto e l’altro, sempre leggero, aggiungono degli spuntini. Curry, noodles di vario tipo, riso, carni e pesce, insalate... Immaginavate che spesso proprio le insalate sono uno dei piatti più piccanti? La più conosciuta a livello internazionale è il Som Tam : di origine laotiana, a base di papaya triturata o tagliata alla julienne, combina a meraviglia sapori, consistenze e colori, creando una presentazione spettacolare... Tutto ciò esprime la convivialità, il gusto di condividere la gioia di un boccone. Ecco perché anche questo è un modo per avvicinarsi alla Thainess (la thailandesità) lasciandosi tentare dalle sue prelibatezze. Un abbinamento di 5 sapori fondamentali: piccante, dolce, aspro, salato e un pizzico di amaro che si contrastano e completano armoniosamente. Una varietà enorme di gusti, attraverso l’uso di erbe, spezie ed ingredienti freschi , e in cui spesso danno un tocco speciale il latte di cocco e la frutta. Il piatto thai più celebre, anche per gli stranieri? Senz’altro il Pad Thai: potete gustarlo in versione verace al genuino Thip Samai, a Bangkok, sempre pieno di locali e stranieri; mettetevi in coda, aspettate un pochino, e leccatevi i baffi!
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Lo street food
E lo street food? La diversità del cibo di strada a Bangkok rende la capitale uno dei luoghi più attraenti per i visitatori di tutto il mondo. Per i thai mangiare lungo la strada è usuale, un’abitudine consolidata: a ogni ora del giorno e della notte è possibile gustare una delle mille pietanze preparate a ritmo continuo a ridosso dei mercati e nelle zone più popolari. Avventuratevi in questo mondo, come abbiamo fatto noi: l'importante è che i cibi siano cucinati, le carni ben cotte e le verdure fresche; un po’ di intuito, di occhio e di “naso” fanno il resto , e il piacere del palato (nonchè di immergersi nella realtà locale) è assicurato. Per chi non si sente di “avventurarsi “ da solo e vuole approfondire e provare un vero tour gastronomico, c’è il Bangkok Food Tour, una sorta di “iniziazione” golosa serale, in compagnia di una guida esperta e, naturalmente, a bordo del tipico tuk tuk (bangkokfoodtours.com). E per chi va a Phuket e a Chiang Mai, food tour garantiti non solo di sera, ma anche al mattino e al pomeriggio.
Prelibatezze per il palato
Se poi volete concedervi una cena coi fiocchi, fate tappa al Nahm del Como Metropolitan Bangkok, guidato dalla Chef Pin: uno dei migliori ristoranti in Asia, che nel 2022 ha ottenuto una stella Michelin per il quinto anno consecutivo. Piatti curatissimi che esprimono una versione moderna della tradizionale cucina thailandese, con sapori forti e freschi, che bilanciano caldo e freddo, dolce e salato.
Aperitivo, cena o cocktail “con vista”? Provate lo Sky bar del Sirocco: arrivati al 63mo piano capirete perchè... E’ il “più alto” ristorante all’aperto del mondo, quindi godetevi lo spettacolo, magari sorseggiando il drink più popolare del bar: l’Hangovertini. Ispirato al film Hangover 2 (alcune scene sono state girate qui) è un mix di liquore al tè verde, martini rosso, succo di mela, rosmarino e miele.
Informazioni pratiche per organizzare il viaggio
La compagnia Flydubai ha lanciato servizi giornalieri per Krabi e Pattaya, a partire da 649 € ; voli da Milano (BGY), Napoli, Catania, Pisa, Cagliari. Volano su Bangkok anche Cathay Pacific (da Milano Malpensa, tariffe vantaggiose sino al 30 novembre) e Qatar Airways, da 675 €.
Evolution Travel, agenzia di viaggi e tour operator, e Kibo Tours, specializzato in Sud Est asiatico, organizzano giri speciali in Thailandia.
Per saperne di più: da leggere Il Cuore della Thailandia. Viaggiare, vivere, perdersi nella terra del sorriso, di Lucia Giovannini (Sperling & Kupfer). Il libro è arricchito da un QR-code che rimanda a oltre 60 video in cui l’autrice offre consigli, racconta curiosità e illustra luoghi inediti.
BOX Responsabilità e rispetto
Purtroppo, la prostituzione, anche minorile, e la tratta trovano in Thailandia un terreno ancora fertile, nonostante gli sforzi compiuti dalle autorità negli ultimi anni . Una vera e propria industria che attrae anche molti turisti italiani. “C’è molto da cambiare in Thailandia, per migliorare le condizioni delle persone più povere - ha sottolineato tempo fa Massimo Pallottino, operatore dell’ufficio Asia e Oceania della Caritas italiana in un’intervista a radio Vaticana- Ma dobbiamo anche cambiare la nostra mentalità. La mentalità nelle nostre società ricche che talvolta vedono in questi Paesi una possibilità di divertimento facile, senza responsabilità”.
http://www.turismothailandese.it
